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Dos Palillos, Lunch, April 6, 2013

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Dos Palillos is Chef Albert Raurich’s vision of a Spanish-Asian fusion tapas bar. In a sense, the 11-year veteran at El Bulli has started down the path that Joël Robuchon took a decade earlier with L’Atelier Paris. The vision to make small portions of high-end cuisine more accessible has sprung up all over the first world. You see it in more creative tapas bars. You see it in the American gastropub revolution. For consumers, the pay-as-you-go system of small plates democratizes participation in life’s finer things. For restaurants with solid operations, it equates to faster turnover and higher revenue per square foot.

Horse Mackeral: I wouldn't order this as sashimi at a great Japanese restaurant, so why would I order it here? Well, someone did and said, "Please eat this. It's terrible." With that ringing endorsement, I tried a piece. A quarter of each slice is the bitter blood line. Since I would never have ordered this, I won't hold this against the restaurant. JW Baby Octopus in Mustard Sauce: The octopi are super tender and the sauce adds lift. Still, I'd prefer it sautéed in garlic/parsley/oil, once again showing the hazards of trying to overdress a star ingredient. 0.8 Shitake Tempura: Super juicy mushroom a tribute to the underlying fresh ingredient. 85 Braised Iberian Pork Cheek: Sautéed after a day-long braise, this is crispy and unctuous at the same time. The teriyaki treatment is a complementary glaze rather than overpowering sauce. 1.6+ Galician Beef Tataki: Seared perfectly rare with a quail egg / mustard / soy mixture for dipping, this is quite good for being fairly lean. The crust is both crispy and wood smoky. 2.0

Dos Palillos definitely deserves its first Michelin and could easily be on its way up if it spends more time inventing and testing new dishes before launch. I hope to return with a reservation to try the more comprehensive tasting menu in the back room. When ordering à la carte, understand the local seafood market. If it didn’t look good at La Boqueria, you probably shouldn’t order it. 1.2

Dos Palillos
Carrer d’Elisabets, 9
08001 Barcelona, Spain
+34 933 04 05 13
M: Plaza de Catalunya



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